Gloria Garfinkel, Kosode Kagami (1993), a series of four intaglio prints signed and numbered by the artist in an edition of 20 with five artist's proofs. Each print is 22 x 22 inches and was printed on German Etching paper by Catherine Mosley in Canaan and New York. Colorful, decorative, as are all Garfinkel's prints, the Kosode Kagami series follows a more rigorous path than is usual for her. Four patterns, the artist's interpretation of traditional fabric designs for Japanese kimonos, form quadrant, of a circle placed in the center of a squared diamond. The circle is turned 90˚ for each print so that the patterns change in position.

Changed, too, are the colors of the patterns, inked, often à la poupée, on three plates. The ground is another kimonolike pattern, in two blacks, warm and cool. Garfinkel explains that salesmen traveled throughout Japan with patternbooks, from which women would chose designs. The number of new kimonos a woman could have was determined by her status. Middle-class women therefore redyed old kimonos, often choosing darker patterns as they aged. Sometimes there's more in decoration than assumed.

Price: set of four $2,400; single prints $650. Published by the artist, New York.
Available in New York at Mary Ryan Gallery.

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